How to read a Pattern: Part 1 (Reading the Envelope)

I figure it would be a good thing to start off with the basics. Todays post will be about how to read a sewing pattern! There are quite a few brands out there. Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, Bruda, Vogue, New Look, and KwikSew are the most common brands which you can find locally (usually anyway... depends on where you live). Joann Fabrics carries all these brands but you can also find some brands at Wal-Mart. The best time to buy patterns is when Joann Fabric's is having a sale on them! Simplicity, McCalls, and Butterick patterns will go down to as little as $1 each!! While Burda and Vogue go on sale for $5 each. That's when I always pick mine up (and pick up other ones for future outfits)!

What pattern to get?
So which patterns should you get? That really depends on your level of sewing. Have you ever sewn before? If the answer is no, then you should stick with Simplicity and McCalls. The patterns are relatively easy to understand and they come with a nice glossary and guidelines in the beginning to help new comers. Butterick is also usually pretty simple but sometimes the instructions are a little more difficult to understand. Burda and Vogue are for more experienced sewers. They assume you already know the basics and don't give you any (or very few) definitions or guidelines.

Now, not all brands are the exact same for patterns. Some might use slightly different markings. But overall, they're close enough.

You can pick a pattern by looking at the catalog books. Any store that sells pattern usually has these at a table next to the drawers that hold the patterns. Flip through the book till you find something you like or something close to what you need. Once you pick a pattern, you will see a number at the bottom of that page that tells you the pattern number. You use that number to find it in the drawers.

I'm going to look at Simplicity 2813 which is the Cinderella/Snow White costume. Just so we are all on the same page, I'm going to say we are making view A (which would be Snow White).

Not all patterns have such a fancy front. A lot are just simple white with either sketches of the outfit or some models or both. Anyway, as you can see on the front there is an A and a B next to the two models. Those are the two different "views" that this pattern comes with. 

Direction under the pattern number is the sizing for the this pack. They usually (definitely not always) size 6-12 and 14-22. Some come smaller or bigger. I explain below how to tell which one you will need.

Then there is all that mumbo-jumbo written on the back. It seems like a lot but it's actually quite simple!


Reading the back of the pattern:

Fabrics:
This part will give you a list of recommended fabrics for this costume. It also lists fabrics for the different parts or accessories, such as the headband. Notice when you start reading the section, it just lists the lining, then talks about the views. They will always list items that are included for all views first. Then list each view separately. According to this pattern, they suggest doing the lining in broadcloth, dress and cape in either broadcloth or gabardine, and the headband, sleeve contrast, cape lining and bow in crepe back satin or satin.

Not sure what certain fabrics are? Or where to find them in the store? Ask! Most Joann Fabric associates have some (or lots) of knowledge about fabrics. You might not get as much luck at a wal-mart though. I'm not sure if they have any requirements for people in that department other than "here's how to cut fabric". But whoever you ask (whether at Joanns or wal-mart), they might be able to recommend you other types of fabrics to use! That being said, you don't have to use the fabric they suggest. If you find a suiting fabric that is the absolute perfect color for a cosplays, then get it! Obviously it doesn't always work out that way (like if you need a knit) but don't be afraid to experiment! I personally used satin to make the main dress since it looks nicer. After all, she is a princess!

Notions:
Here you will see a list of notions needed to make this costume. What's a notion? Pretty much anything you need to make the dress that's not the fabric. It can be buttons, zippers, ribbon, trims, eyes & hooks, Velcro (which some patterns call "hook-and-loop fastener"), etc. Looks like we need thread (obviously!), 22" zipper, one headband, and glue (for all views. We also need two hooks & eye, 8" of 3/4" wide Velcro, one package of polyester fiberfill (poly-fil, yes, the stuff you use to make stuffed animals!). Make sure you read the ENTIRE envelope before you think you have everything and head out!! Sometimes there are other things listed later on!

Body Measurements and Pattern Size:
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure you measure yourself before buying (and cutting) any pattern! Just because you wear a size 12 size jean, does not mean you take a size 12 pattern! Yes, I know that sounds weird but pattern sizes do not match up with actual clothing! You can find out what size pattern you need by following the measurement chart. Let's say my bust is 36". If you look at that number, and go down the chart, it would bring me to a size 14 in the pattern. Check all your measurements to make sure the size will fit. You have unique sizing, you may have to alter the pattern slightly. If you fall in between, like 37", I would round up to the next size. It's always easier to take in an outfit than to have to either add fabric to it or worse case, have to start over completely.

How much fabric you'll need:
Below the sizing chart, you will see another chart that tells you how much fabric you will need for each view (and in this case, the other bits you need). Fabric generally comes in 45" wide or 60" wide. So you will see two difference measurements each. The end of the bolt will tell you how wide the fabric is. If you're not sure, you can always ask the person cutting your fabric to help you. If the bolt of fabric says its 58" wide, then use the 60" measurement.

The satin fabric I bought for this outfit was 60" wide. Looking at the chart, if I go to the size 14 and follow it down, I will need 2 3/4" yards of fabric for the bodice and cape. You'll notice is says "45" to 60" on this line. That just means it doesn't matter how wide the fabric is, you'll still be getting the same amount. Continuing down, you'll see you need 3/4 of a yard of lining.

Below all that is the other bits of items you need to get as well. It'll tell you about interfacing, applique, piping and other stuff (which will be a topic for another day).


But that's pretty much everything in a nut shell! It's the very basic of how to read a pattern package. My next blog might be about some more terms you see on the back (like pile and nap). Or I may just jump right into opening the pack up and reading the instructions and pattern pieces! We shall see.

I hope you found this useful! Feel free to leave suggestions for future blogs, comments, or questions about anything. Thanks again for stopping by!

~Serenity