Tutorials on YouTube!

I know it's been a while since I've posted on here. I was actually going to transition doing blogs on my website (so it's all in one spot) but I didn't really like the layout and editing options. Sooo I'm going to stick with this here.

While I haven't posted any new blogs, I have finally started to make some speed-run videos of some previous cosplays! I have been trying to keep up with posting at least one new video a month. So, to catch things up here, I will post a link to my YouTube channel and a list of all the current videos up. I currently do not plan on making any write ups on the progress from these cosplays since the speed run videos pretty much go over everything. Unless someone specially requests it. Then I might!

Anyway, here they are!

   

   

   

Don't forget to give a like or even subscribing to the channel (also hit that bell to be notified of new content!). I am hoping to continue posting more speed run and tutorials for cosplays I've done in the past and will be doing in the future. Want to see something specific? Let me know! More votes will bump it up on my list!

If you haven't already check them here, here are my social medias as well. And of course my Twitch channel where I stream working on my cosplays/commissions (and sometime gaming).
Facebook: www.facebook.com/velvetrosecreations/
Instagram: www.instagram.com/velvetrosecosplay/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/VelvetCosplay
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/velvetrosecreations

Thanks for stopping by! Catch you all later!
~Serenity

Sergers: What are they? And why do you want one?

Sergers, also known as Overlock machines, can sew using two to five threads at once. Now and days, most sergers have four cones and can do a three or four thread overlock (some can even do a two thread overlock).

So how does a serger work? As fabric is fed into the machine, the feed dogs catch and move it along until the blade trims the edge. Then, the needles and loopers form the stitches perfectly on the edge of the cut fabric. Everything works simultaneously to create that perfect stitch. Typically if your serger is not forming stitches (also known as chains) properly, then you may have misthreaded something. Pull all the threads out and start fresh. If it's still not forming a chain, then it could be out of timing and needs to be taken to a professional for service (note I said professional, meaning don't try it yourself).

I recently wrote about purchasing a sewing machine in two previous blogs. Part 1 has information about how to narrow down your choices and where you can buy from. Part 2 went into a bit more detail about features sewing machines can have. If you haven't already, go give them a read. If anything, at least read through part 1.

As I stated in Part 1, I highly recommend visiting a local dealer to purchase a serger. Your satisfaction with your serger will depend greatly on the dealer you purchase from since you are also buying their service and experience. What does that mean? It means that when you have any issues or questions about your serger, they'll be there to help. Find out if lessons are included in the purchase. Most dealers offer an "introduction" or "guide" class when you purchase from them at no extra cost. If you've never owned a serger before (or barely used the one you had), then the guide class will be perfect for you. They'll go over threading, maintenance, and what your serger is capable of (gathering, rolled hems, etc). While if you buy something from Jo-ann Fabric or Amazon, you're stuck learning everything on your own. If there is a problem, you'll have to send or take it back for an exchange. Meanwhile, a dealer can help you solve your problem or look at the machine right away.

When buying a serger, keep in mind the basic questions you would normally ask when purchasing a sewing machine. Think about the types of materials you'll be using and what kind of projects you plan on working on. If you sew with a specific type of material, bring some sample pieces with you to test on (if you are visiting a dealer).

There are many different features available on sergers. It's helpful to have a list of what you expect your serger to do. Sew a lot of gathers? Then differential feed is a must have feature. Sew a lot of silk or sheer fabrics? Then you probably want to be able to do a rolled hem. Before you shop, I'd recommend reading about the different type of stitches sergers can do and what they are used for (maybe that'll be one of my next blog!).

So why do you want one? What's so great about them?

Sergers give your cosplay (or garment, project, etc) a more professional touch. It finishes the edges which also makes your cosplays last longer. Do you have to serger every edge of fabric in every project? Nah. I will serge any seam that is exposed or any fabric that tends to fray a lot (like satins). So if I'm working on something that will be fully lined, I will most likely skip serging the edges since all the seams will be enclosed.

When people ask for advance on purchasing a new serger or sewing machine, I always stress the importance of buying one of good quality. Even if that means waiting so you cans save a bit before purchasing. Why? Because the $100-$200 serger will end up lasting you a few years versus spending the extra $200+ on a better quality one that will last you 15+ years.

Don't forget that you'll want to get your serger (and your sewing machine) serviced about every 2 years. If you use your machines frequently (5+ hours everyday), consider getting it serviced every year. I highly recommend taking it to a shop to get it serviced properly. While you may be able to find videos online showing you how to open up your machine and where to put oil, they usually don't tell you much more than that. Did you know that most sergers and sewings take anywhere from 5 to 12 different kinds of oils and lubricants? Yup. That little bottle of oil you find at craft stores is not a universal oil to use on all parts of your machine (not to mention they are low quality).

Here's a few quick tips when shopping for a serger at a local dealer:

• Gather different weight and types of fabrics you want to sew to test on
• Have the dealer explain the stitches available
• Have them show you how to make adjustments (be it tension or type of stitches)
• Ask to have the differential feed and rolled hem demo'd
• Have them show you how to thread it (and thread it yourself afterward). Don't let them try to tell you the "cheater method" of tying your threads together. This doesn't always work and you want to know you can thread the machine on your own!
• Ask questions if you aren't sure
• Don't be afraid to talk about price. Sergers can run up to a couple thousand dollars. So if you want to stay under a certain amount, let them know. It helps them to know not to show you a top end machine when you want something basic (or vice versa).

Babylock is an extremely well known company for sergers. They have machines ranging from $500 up to $6,999. Why are they so pricey? Because they are built with good quality parts and have some amazing features. They also have a great education system with lots of YouTube tutorials and online classes. I'll be making a blog that goes over some of the features available for sergers (maybe next month). In the meantime, here are a few I recommend checking out.

Babylock Victory:
Within the Babylock line of sergers, I recommend not going lower than the Victory. Why's that? 'Cause this machine has automatic tension and what they call Jet-Air Threading™ (which is air threading using a pump/vacuum system). Any machine below this won't have those two features which trust me you'll want. It can also do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, gathers (differential feed), has a thread cutter, and has a built in needle threader.

Babylock Acclaim:

This serger is built much heavier than the Victory and can take a bit more of a beating. It also has automatic tension and their RevolutionAir™ Threading. It has a slightly bigger throat space (giving you more room to work on stuff), differential feeds, can do rolled hems, thread cutter, and it can do a "wave stitch." As of right now I haven't seen any use for that stitch in cosplay but it is pretty and great as a decorative stitch on projects. It also has air threading for your needles!

Babylock Triumph:
This machine is a beast (and probably out of reach for most). Seriously. The Triumph is a Serger & Cover Sitch combo machine. It has the ability to do 87 different type of stitches (although half of them are the same stitch with just an extra safety stitch added). It has an even bigger throat space, more LED lights, RevolutionAir™ Threading (for both loopers and needles). This is Babylock's top end machine and is a pretty expensive.

Brother 5234PRW:
If you are looking for a very basic beginner machine, this is a nice little one. It will meet most of your everyday needs and help get you started. It can do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, and gathers. It also comes with a gathering foot, blindstitch foot, a little tray to catch your fabric as it cuts, and the extension table which opens up for storage.

These are just a few sergers that I have personally sewn on. There are lots out there to choose from and ultimately it's up to you to decide which one is right for you. If you have any further questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below or send a message on my facebook page!

Take care!
~Serenity

Sewing Machines: Part 2

Let's talk a little more about buying and maintaining a sewing machine.

Do you need to buy the top of line machine from the start? No way! Should you go with the absolute cheapest thing you can find? Probably not. If it's all you can afford, then by all means, please do. But don't expect it to go through heavy materials, have a lot of features, or last more than a year or two. I understand that people are on a budget and you only want to spend about $100 on a sewing machine. But let's face it, a sewing machine is an investment. If you want it to last you more than a year, then you need to save up and buy something a little nicer than the low end machine.

Here are some sewing features to consider when looking at buying a sewing machine:

• Number of stitches (even though you won't use half of them)
• Number of feet/accessories (some are really useful!)
• Needle threader (for those who have trouble threading a needle)
• Thread cutter (best thing ever!)
• Auto pressure/pivot (once you use this, you can't live without it)
• Large throat/bed space (helps if you will be working on bigger projects)
• Lighting (gotta be able to see what you're doing, right?)
• Metal frame

So let's go over that list a bit more.

The number of stitches on a machine does not make the machine any better. This literally has nothing to do with the build of the machine. Having more stitches is just an extra luxury. You don't really need them, but they are nice to have. Depending on the type of sewing you do, you might find uses for some of them. The average person, however, doesn't. So don't let this one fool you when they try to tell you how many awesome stitches there are! 

The number of feet and accessories that a machine comes with also has nothing to do with how good the machine is. A lot of machines will come with the basics needed to sew: standard foot, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, and sometimes a blind hem or rolled hem foot. The lower in the line you go, the less feet and accessories come with it and vice versa. Don't worry though, if your machine didn't come with something, you can always buy them separately (they'll get your money one way or another!). So again, a nice to have but not really necessary.

One of the biggest complaints I hear is not being able to thread the needle on the machine. Most machines now and days come with some kind of needle threader (not all do though). It's a nice feature to have though, especially when you move up in the line and get to the automatic needle threader. Oh those are a dream! Just push a button and the needle gets threaded! 

Most people never heard of a thread cutter. A lot of machines will have a small cutting on the left hand side of the machine. When you step up in the line, you have an automatic thread cutter. With a push of a button, it cuts your threads for you. I love this feature. In the long run, it saves you time (and some thread). It's kind of a luxury feature as well but to me, well worth the extra money.

When it comes to pressure foot pressure, not many know or understand what it is. Depending on the material you are sewing, and how thick it is, depends on what you're pressure foot pressure should be. A lot of new (mid to high end) machines come with an automatic pressure system. This automatically figures out how hard your pressure foot should be pushing down on the fabric to help feed it properly. This also (usually) means you gain a feature called Pivot. The pivot feature will leave your needle in the down position and lift your pressure foot just enough so you can turn your fabric without having to lift your foot manually. It's great for going around corners and sewing patches! It's a great feature to have but you have to really step up in the line to get it (and it's not cheap).

Having a large throat/bed area in your machine will give you more room while sewing. The throat is the area to the right of your needle. When working with bigger projects (tutus, ball gowns, quilts, etc), having that extra space makes a huge difference. The further up the line you go, the bigger the throat you gain. In my opinion, a good size is a minimum of eight inches. But once again, really depends on the projects you plan to work on.

Lighting is pretty self explanatory. I'm pretty sure all machines now come with at least one light (don't quote me on that though). I know some OLD machines didn't but I haven't seen one not come with a light in a really long time. The mid to higher end machines have multiple LED lights. I don't really put any thought into lights but if there isn't much light where you sew, then this might be more important to you.

Lastly, a metal frame. Sewing machines back in the day used to be built so much better (in my opinion anyway). Companies put good quality parts in their machines. Now? They skimp where they can. Any machine that has a plastic frame is pretty much junk. Now, when I say plastic frame I'm talking about the skeleton of the machine, not the outside. The reason you see machines selling for $100-$200 is because companies are putting cheap parts in them. They put smaller ball bearings, thinner plastic gears, and so forth. You know that "Singer Heavy Duty" you see selling at Joann's? That machine is not heavy duty at all. If you sew thicker material on that, you will knock it out of timing in no time.

So let's say you are looking at machines and you see one for $200 and the next step up is $500. The only difference you can see is that it comes with a few more stitches and feet. You think to yourself "$300 more for a few feet and stitches? Not worth it!" What you have to realize is (typically) you are paying for a better built machine with quality parts. I say typically because it's not always the case. Some machines are just not built well no matter where in the line you go.

To some people, brand matters. What's the best brand out there? It's really hard to say. You will always run into your die hard fans of whatever their favorite brand is. But consider this, most sewing machine companies outsource their products. What does that mean? It means that they have their parts built from a third party and even pay a completely different company to put it all together. We're talking anywhere from 2 to who knows how many different companies having a hand at building your machine. Brother and Janome are the only two true manufacturers for sewing machines. In fact, they even make parts and machines for other companies.

I hope this helped you learn a little bit more about machines and what you should look for. What brands have you bought in the past? Feel free to comment below with any questions. I'll try my best to answer them!

~Serenity

Sewing Machines: Low to high and where to buy

What do you think of when you hear sewing machines? For most, it's Singer or Brother. Baby Lock, Janome, Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff, and Bernina are probably the top brands that are most commonly known in the sewing and cosplay community.

I often come across beginners asking questions about sewing machines. Which brand is better? Which model is better? How do you decide what is the right machine for you?

For many, this is a very challenging question. There are a minimum of 22 different sewing machine brands out there (that I know of; and trust me, there are probably more). Within those brands, there are thousands of different models out there to choose from. Where does someone even begin???

Let me start off with saying there is no right or wrong brand. There are people out there who have their favorite brands, just like with cell phones, cars, and gaming systems. You will always hear people say "Oh, ABC is crap. You should get XYZ! They are so much better!" Sometimes, it's true. Not all machines are made equal (even within the same brand).

Obviously researching machines is a must. You can find reviews, blogs, and videos online for just about everything out there. Ask a friend, mother, grandmother, coworker or anyone you know who sews to see what they like and why. Get a feel for what people think about the brands they bought. Chances are, you'll end up buying something similar to someone you know because they will teach you the ropes. Right?

Also keep in mind that you should not base your purchase solely on reviews online. More people will post reviews when they have something negative to say. Think about it, how often do you post a 5 star or positive review on something you bought online? You say you will but it just slips your mind and never happens. Happens to all of us. And yes, there are people out there who do. Just saying, keep it in mind!

I'd also like to point out that a lot of what I write is my personal opinion on any brands that I list. No, I have not sewn on every sewing machine out there (as much as I would love to) but I do hear a lot about the top brands and their inner workings (both machine and company wise).

First off, have a game plan. What kind of sewing do you want to or plan to do? Are you more into sewing apparel or fashion? Crafts? Home decor? Cosplay? Mending/alterations? I personally like to think a head. Think of it as an investment. You want something that's going to last you a long time! Or at least something to get you started till you are ready to upgrade.

Okay, so you have an idea on the type of projects you're going to work on. Now think about features you want your sewing machine to be able to do. This will go hand in hand with pricing as well. The more features a machine has, the more it's going to cost. Currently the new top of the line Brother and Baby Lock machines MSRP is $20,000. Yup. That's right. Not a typo. BUT! No one ever buys a machine at MSRP. Dealers always have sales going on and they take trade ins. So you can always buy a mid-end machine now, and trade in for a fancy one later.

Truthfully, the best thing to do is go to a local dealer. They are (usually) friendly and very knowledgeable. They can help you find a machine that's right for you. It also gives you a chance to see what kind of features are out there and prices. You'll notice that sewing companies don't list prices on their website and dealers are generally not allowed to tell you prices over the phone. This is because companies want you to physically go into a store to look at the machines. And yes, you can find lower end sewing machines listed in stores at Wal-Mart, Target, and Joanns or online on Amazon. But please note, that these models are LOW END machines. They are not built to last more than maybe five years or so and generally have cheaper components inside. Now, I'm not saying that you shouldn't buy any of the low end machines. If it's what you can afford, then by all means, go for it.

When you buy a sewing machine online or from any big box retailer (Joanns, Wal-Mart, Target) you are pretty much just buying the machine. Yes, they come with manuals so you can typically figure out how to use it. But if you have a problem with the machine or if you have any questions, what do you do? Sometimes you can get lucky and have a lady at Joanns help you out. But usually they either don't know enough about the machines or are to busy to be able to go over it. Good luck getting any support from Wal-Mart or Target employees. Sure Joanns offers classes to learn to sew, but they don't offer support on the machines they sell.

So what about dealers? When you buy a machine from them, you are buying much more than a machine. You are buying the support of the brand and support throughout your sewing journey. Dealers offer an intro class free of charge (at least every dealer I've encountered). Dealers are usually warranty centers as well. So if you have an issue, they typically take care of it. They also are there to answer any questions as well. Puckering in fabric? Thread tearing? Bobbin jamming? They'll help you figure out what the problem is and give you options and solutions.

I hope this gives you a little insight on buying a new machine. When possible, stay away from low end machines. Save up an invest in something a little better. You'll be happier in the long run!

~Serenity