Tutorials on YouTube!

I know it's been a while since I've posted on here. I was actually going to transition doing blogs on my website (so it's all in one spot) but I didn't really like the layout and editing options. Sooo I'm going to stick with this here.

While I haven't posted any new blogs, I have finally started to make some speed-run videos of some previous cosplays! I have been trying to keep up with posting at least one new video a month. So, to catch things up here, I will post a link to my YouTube channel and a list of all the current videos up. I currently do not plan on making any write ups on the progress from these cosplays since the speed run videos pretty much go over everything. Unless someone specially requests it. Then I might!

Anyway, here they are!

   

   

   

Don't forget to give a like or even subscribing to the channel (also hit that bell to be notified of new content!). I am hoping to continue posting more speed run and tutorials for cosplays I've done in the past and will be doing in the future. Want to see something specific? Let me know! More votes will bump it up on my list!

If you haven't already check them here, here are my social medias as well. And of course my Twitch channel where I stream working on my cosplays/commissions (and sometime gaming).
Facebook: www.facebook.com/velvetrosecreations/
Instagram: www.instagram.com/velvetrosecosplay/
Twitter: https://twitter.com/VelvetCosplay
Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/velvetrosecreations

Thanks for stopping by! Catch you all later!
~Serenity

Sergers: What are they? And why do you want one?

Sergers, also known as Overlock machines, can sew using two to five threads at once. Now and days, most sergers have four cones and can do a three or four thread overlock (some can even do a two thread overlock).

So how does a serger work? As fabric is fed into the machine, the feed dogs catch and move it along until the blade trims the edge. Then, the needles and loopers form the stitches perfectly on the edge of the cut fabric. Everything works simultaneously to create that perfect stitch. Typically if your serger is not forming stitches (also known as chains) properly, then you may have misthreaded something. Pull all the threads out and start fresh. If it's still not forming a chain, then it could be out of timing and needs to be taken to a professional for service (note I said professional, meaning don't try it yourself).

I recently wrote about purchasing a sewing machine in two previous blogs. Part 1 has information about how to narrow down your choices and where you can buy from. Part 2 went into a bit more detail about features sewing machines can have. If you haven't already, go give them a read. If anything, at least read through part 1.

As I stated in Part 1, I highly recommend visiting a local dealer to purchase a serger. Your satisfaction with your serger will depend greatly on the dealer you purchase from since you are also buying their service and experience. What does that mean? It means that when you have any issues or questions about your serger, they'll be there to help. Find out if lessons are included in the purchase. Most dealers offer an "introduction" or "guide" class when you purchase from them at no extra cost. If you've never owned a serger before (or barely used the one you had), then the guide class will be perfect for you. They'll go over threading, maintenance, and what your serger is capable of (gathering, rolled hems, etc). While if you buy something from Jo-ann Fabric or Amazon, you're stuck learning everything on your own. If there is a problem, you'll have to send or take it back for an exchange. Meanwhile, a dealer can help you solve your problem or look at the machine right away.

When buying a serger, keep in mind the basic questions you would normally ask when purchasing a sewing machine. Think about the types of materials you'll be using and what kind of projects you plan on working on. If you sew with a specific type of material, bring some sample pieces with you to test on (if you are visiting a dealer).

There are many different features available on sergers. It's helpful to have a list of what you expect your serger to do. Sew a lot of gathers? Then differential feed is a must have feature. Sew a lot of silk or sheer fabrics? Then you probably want to be able to do a rolled hem. Before you shop, I'd recommend reading about the different type of stitches sergers can do and what they are used for (maybe that'll be one of my next blog!).

So why do you want one? What's so great about them?

Sergers give your cosplay (or garment, project, etc) a more professional touch. It finishes the edges which also makes your cosplays last longer. Do you have to serger every edge of fabric in every project? Nah. I will serge any seam that is exposed or any fabric that tends to fray a lot (like satins). So if I'm working on something that will be fully lined, I will most likely skip serging the edges since all the seams will be enclosed.

When people ask for advance on purchasing a new serger or sewing machine, I always stress the importance of buying one of good quality. Even if that means waiting so you cans save a bit before purchasing. Why? Because the $100-$200 serger will end up lasting you a few years versus spending the extra $200+ on a better quality one that will last you 15+ years.

Don't forget that you'll want to get your serger (and your sewing machine) serviced about every 2 years. If you use your machines frequently (5+ hours everyday), consider getting it serviced every year. I highly recommend taking it to a shop to get it serviced properly. While you may be able to find videos online showing you how to open up your machine and where to put oil, they usually don't tell you much more than that. Did you know that most sergers and sewings take anywhere from 5 to 12 different kinds of oils and lubricants? Yup. That little bottle of oil you find at craft stores is not a universal oil to use on all parts of your machine (not to mention they are low quality).

Here's a few quick tips when shopping for a serger at a local dealer:

• Gather different weight and types of fabrics you want to sew to test on
• Have the dealer explain the stitches available
• Have them show you how to make adjustments (be it tension or type of stitches)
• Ask to have the differential feed and rolled hem demo'd
• Have them show you how to thread it (and thread it yourself afterward). Don't let them try to tell you the "cheater method" of tying your threads together. This doesn't always work and you want to know you can thread the machine on your own!
• Ask questions if you aren't sure
• Don't be afraid to talk about price. Sergers can run up to a couple thousand dollars. So if you want to stay under a certain amount, let them know. It helps them to know not to show you a top end machine when you want something basic (or vice versa).

Babylock is an extremely well known company for sergers. They have machines ranging from $500 up to $6,999. Why are they so pricey? Because they are built with good quality parts and have some amazing features. They also have a great education system with lots of YouTube tutorials and online classes. I'll be making a blog that goes over some of the features available for sergers (maybe next month). In the meantime, here are a few I recommend checking out.

Babylock Victory:
Within the Babylock line of sergers, I recommend not going lower than the Victory. Why's that? 'Cause this machine has automatic tension and what they call Jet-Air Threading™ (which is air threading using a pump/vacuum system). Any machine below this won't have those two features which trust me you'll want. It can also do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, gathers (differential feed), has a thread cutter, and has a built in needle threader.

Babylock Acclaim:

This serger is built much heavier than the Victory and can take a bit more of a beating. It also has automatic tension and their RevolutionAir™ Threading. It has a slightly bigger throat space (giving you more room to work on stuff), differential feeds, can do rolled hems, thread cutter, and it can do a "wave stitch." As of right now I haven't seen any use for that stitch in cosplay but it is pretty and great as a decorative stitch on projects. It also has air threading for your needles!

Babylock Triumph:
This machine is a beast (and probably out of reach for most). Seriously. The Triumph is a Serger & Cover Sitch combo machine. It has the ability to do 87 different type of stitches (although half of them are the same stitch with just an extra safety stitch added). It has an even bigger throat space, more LED lights, RevolutionAir™ Threading (for both loopers and needles). This is Babylock's top end machine and is a pretty expensive.

Brother 5234PRW:
If you are looking for a very basic beginner machine, this is a nice little one. It will meet most of your everyday needs and help get you started. It can do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, and gathers. It also comes with a gathering foot, blindstitch foot, a little tray to catch your fabric as it cuts, and the extension table which opens up for storage.

These are just a few sergers that I have personally sewn on. There are lots out there to choose from and ultimately it's up to you to decide which one is right for you. If you have any further questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below or send a message on my facebook page!

Take care!
~Serenity

Sewing Machines: Part 2

Let's talk a little more about buying and maintaining a sewing machine.

Do you need to buy the top of line machine from the start? No way! Should you go with the absolute cheapest thing you can find? Probably not. If it's all you can afford, then by all means, please do. But don't expect it to go through heavy materials, have a lot of features, or last more than a year or two. I understand that people are on a budget and you only want to spend about $100 on a sewing machine. But let's face it, a sewing machine is an investment. If you want it to last you more than a year, then you need to save up and buy something a little nicer than the low end machine.

Here are some sewing features to consider when looking at buying a sewing machine:

• Number of stitches (even though you won't use half of them)
• Number of feet/accessories (some are really useful!)
• Needle threader (for those who have trouble threading a needle)
• Thread cutter (best thing ever!)
• Auto pressure/pivot (once you use this, you can't live without it)
• Large throat/bed space (helps if you will be working on bigger projects)
• Lighting (gotta be able to see what you're doing, right?)
• Metal frame

So let's go over that list a bit more.

The number of stitches on a machine does not make the machine any better. This literally has nothing to do with the build of the machine. Having more stitches is just an extra luxury. You don't really need them, but they are nice to have. Depending on the type of sewing you do, you might find uses for some of them. The average person, however, doesn't. So don't let this one fool you when they try to tell you how many awesome stitches there are! 

The number of feet and accessories that a machine comes with also has nothing to do with how good the machine is. A lot of machines will come with the basics needed to sew: standard foot, zipper foot, buttonhole foot, and sometimes a blind hem or rolled hem foot. The lower in the line you go, the less feet and accessories come with it and vice versa. Don't worry though, if your machine didn't come with something, you can always buy them separately (they'll get your money one way or another!). So again, a nice to have but not really necessary.

One of the biggest complaints I hear is not being able to thread the needle on the machine. Most machines now and days come with some kind of needle threader (not all do though). It's a nice feature to have though, especially when you move up in the line and get to the automatic needle threader. Oh those are a dream! Just push a button and the needle gets threaded! 

Most people never heard of a thread cutter. A lot of machines will have a small cutting on the left hand side of the machine. When you step up in the line, you have an automatic thread cutter. With a push of a button, it cuts your threads for you. I love this feature. In the long run, it saves you time (and some thread). It's kind of a luxury feature as well but to me, well worth the extra money.

When it comes to pressure foot pressure, not many know or understand what it is. Depending on the material you are sewing, and how thick it is, depends on what you're pressure foot pressure should be. A lot of new (mid to high end) machines come with an automatic pressure system. This automatically figures out how hard your pressure foot should be pushing down on the fabric to help feed it properly. This also (usually) means you gain a feature called Pivot. The pivot feature will leave your needle in the down position and lift your pressure foot just enough so you can turn your fabric without having to lift your foot manually. It's great for going around corners and sewing patches! It's a great feature to have but you have to really step up in the line to get it (and it's not cheap).

Having a large throat/bed area in your machine will give you more room while sewing. The throat is the area to the right of your needle. When working with bigger projects (tutus, ball gowns, quilts, etc), having that extra space makes a huge difference. The further up the line you go, the bigger the throat you gain. In my opinion, a good size is a minimum of eight inches. But once again, really depends on the projects you plan to work on.

Lighting is pretty self explanatory. I'm pretty sure all machines now come with at least one light (don't quote me on that though). I know some OLD machines didn't but I haven't seen one not come with a light in a really long time. The mid to higher end machines have multiple LED lights. I don't really put any thought into lights but if there isn't much light where you sew, then this might be more important to you.

Lastly, a metal frame. Sewing machines back in the day used to be built so much better (in my opinion anyway). Companies put good quality parts in their machines. Now? They skimp where they can. Any machine that has a plastic frame is pretty much junk. Now, when I say plastic frame I'm talking about the skeleton of the machine, not the outside. The reason you see machines selling for $100-$200 is because companies are putting cheap parts in them. They put smaller ball bearings, thinner plastic gears, and so forth. You know that "Singer Heavy Duty" you see selling at Joann's? That machine is not heavy duty at all. If you sew thicker material on that, you will knock it out of timing in no time.

So let's say you are looking at machines and you see one for $200 and the next step up is $500. The only difference you can see is that it comes with a few more stitches and feet. You think to yourself "$300 more for a few feet and stitches? Not worth it!" What you have to realize is (typically) you are paying for a better built machine with quality parts. I say typically because it's not always the case. Some machines are just not built well no matter where in the line you go.

To some people, brand matters. What's the best brand out there? It's really hard to say. You will always run into your die hard fans of whatever their favorite brand is. But consider this, most sewing machine companies outsource their products. What does that mean? It means that they have their parts built from a third party and even pay a completely different company to put it all together. We're talking anywhere from 2 to who knows how many different companies having a hand at building your machine. Brother and Janome are the only two true manufacturers for sewing machines. In fact, they even make parts and machines for other companies.

I hope this helped you learn a little bit more about machines and what you should look for. What brands have you bought in the past? Feel free to comment below with any questions. I'll try my best to answer them!

~Serenity

Sewing Machines: Low to high and where to buy

What do you think of when you hear sewing machines? For most, it's Singer or Brother. Baby Lock, Janome, Husqvarna Viking, Pfaff, and Bernina are probably the top brands that are most commonly known in the sewing and cosplay community.

I often come across beginners asking questions about sewing machines. Which brand is better? Which model is better? How do you decide what is the right machine for you?

For many, this is a very challenging question. There are a minimum of 22 different sewing machine brands out there (that I know of; and trust me, there are probably more). Within those brands, there are thousands of different models out there to choose from. Where does someone even begin???

Let me start off with saying there is no right or wrong brand. There are people out there who have their favorite brands, just like with cell phones, cars, and gaming systems. You will always hear people say "Oh, ABC is crap. You should get XYZ! They are so much better!" Sometimes, it's true. Not all machines are made equal (even within the same brand).

Obviously researching machines is a must. You can find reviews, blogs, and videos online for just about everything out there. Ask a friend, mother, grandmother, coworker or anyone you know who sews to see what they like and why. Get a feel for what people think about the brands they bought. Chances are, you'll end up buying something similar to someone you know because they will teach you the ropes. Right?

Also keep in mind that you should not base your purchase solely on reviews online. More people will post reviews when they have something negative to say. Think about it, how often do you post a 5 star or positive review on something you bought online? You say you will but it just slips your mind and never happens. Happens to all of us. And yes, there are people out there who do. Just saying, keep it in mind!

I'd also like to point out that a lot of what I write is my personal opinion on any brands that I list. No, I have not sewn on every sewing machine out there (as much as I would love to) but I do hear a lot about the top brands and their inner workings (both machine and company wise).

First off, have a game plan. What kind of sewing do you want to or plan to do? Are you more into sewing apparel or fashion? Crafts? Home decor? Cosplay? Mending/alterations? I personally like to think a head. Think of it as an investment. You want something that's going to last you a long time! Or at least something to get you started till you are ready to upgrade.

Okay, so you have an idea on the type of projects you're going to work on. Now think about features you want your sewing machine to be able to do. This will go hand in hand with pricing as well. The more features a machine has, the more it's going to cost. Currently the new top of the line Brother and Baby Lock machines MSRP is $20,000. Yup. That's right. Not a typo. BUT! No one ever buys a machine at MSRP. Dealers always have sales going on and they take trade ins. So you can always buy a mid-end machine now, and trade in for a fancy one later.

Truthfully, the best thing to do is go to a local dealer. They are (usually) friendly and very knowledgeable. They can help you find a machine that's right for you. It also gives you a chance to see what kind of features are out there and prices. You'll notice that sewing companies don't list prices on their website and dealers are generally not allowed to tell you prices over the phone. This is because companies want you to physically go into a store to look at the machines. And yes, you can find lower end sewing machines listed in stores at Wal-Mart, Target, and Joanns or online on Amazon. But please note, that these models are LOW END machines. They are not built to last more than maybe five years or so and generally have cheaper components inside. Now, I'm not saying that you shouldn't buy any of the low end machines. If it's what you can afford, then by all means, go for it.

When you buy a sewing machine online or from any big box retailer (Joanns, Wal-Mart, Target) you are pretty much just buying the machine. Yes, they come with manuals so you can typically figure out how to use it. But if you have a problem with the machine or if you have any questions, what do you do? Sometimes you can get lucky and have a lady at Joanns help you out. But usually they either don't know enough about the machines or are to busy to be able to go over it. Good luck getting any support from Wal-Mart or Target employees. Sure Joanns offers classes to learn to sew, but they don't offer support on the machines they sell.

So what about dealers? When you buy a machine from them, you are buying much more than a machine. You are buying the support of the brand and support throughout your sewing journey. Dealers offer an intro class free of charge (at least every dealer I've encountered). Dealers are usually warranty centers as well. So if you have an issue, they typically take care of it. They also are there to answer any questions as well. Puckering in fabric? Thread tearing? Bobbin jamming? They'll help you figure out what the problem is and give you options and solutions.

I hope this gives you a little insight on buying a new machine. When possible, stay away from low end machines. Save up an invest in something a little better. You'll be happier in the long run!

~Serenity

Fabric Samples and Why You Should Order Them

Not everyone is lucky enough to have a fabric store nearby. And even if they do, there is always a chance that they wont carry the fabric you are looking for (or in my case, they stop carrying the fabrics I like). This means you either have to make a road trip to further stores and hope they have something you can use, or, you have to order online.

What's the big deal about order fabric online? To some, it's not a big deal. They get lucky first try. But there are so many factors you need to take into consideration. You wont be able to touch and feel the fabric like you can in store. To me, that's important! If I'm making a dress, I want the fabric to be soft and feel nice against my skin. Not stiff or rough! Then there is also the chance the fabric has a texture to it that you couldn't see in the pictures. Or, what I worry most, is the color is different. All monitors display colors slightly differently. While you think you found the perfect color for your cosplay? Turns out it was darker or lighter (or sometimes no where close) to what it looked like on your computer or phone. There is also the sheerness to the fabric as well. In a recent commission I did, I was going to order what I thought was the perfect fabric (left picture below). Turns out it was way to sheer to use (which was a shame because the color was pretty perfect [right picture below]).

Here's where ordering a sample comes in handy! Most (not all) online sellers sell sample pieces for usually $1 each (some charge less, some charge more; depends on the size of the sample they send). Some sellers even give out free samples! Most offer free shipping on samples but there are a few sites that do charge (which in my opinion is silly... unless you're ordering a lot of samples). The samples are usually 4x4" squares. Though as mentioned before, sometimes they cut bigger samples (there was one set of samples I got that were odd shapes/sizes; probably remnants from projects they had worked on).

I used to just have a pile of the samples, but it was hard to keep track of which ones were from which sites. Originally, I just stapled the sample to a piece of paper and wrote the information to the right of it. Since then, I've upgraded my filing system to binders with custom print outs that I write the information on and staple the sample to.

Ordering samples also gives you an idea of how long it will take for the fabric to come in. Depending on where you order from, it can take anywhere from a week to 3 weeks (or more if it's from overseas). It's definitely something you need to plan a head for but well worth it in the long run.

What do you think about ordering fabric online? Love it? Hate it? Let me know in the comments!

~Serenity

Pearly Art Worbla (White Worbla) Review

I have always been a fan of all the thermoplastics that are available. The possibilities you can do with them are endless. The only downside? It's pricey. It does take a little get used to as well, but once you get the hang of it, you can create some pretty amazing stuff.

Pearly Art is the newest thermoplastic that Worbla has come out with. It was very interesting to play with. It is in fact, even smoother than Black Worbla and about the same thickness as Black Worbla. I felt like it heated up as quickly as Black Worbla and cooled a bit slower. You do still need to give it a coat or two of something to achieve a super smooth surface, however, if you just prime and paint right on it, it's still relatively smooth.

Another cool thing with Pearly Art is that if you are making something that is already white, you don't have to do anything to it (same thing goes for the black worbla)! I used it to make the wings on the accessories and the staff for my Sailor Cosmos cosplay. It did, however, pick up some of the lint so I had to give it a good wipe afterward. It also still has a slight grainy feel to it once it was fully heated but you can't really tell unless you are looking super up close.

Overall, I would recommend using white worbla for smaller pieces and/or for fine detail. It does fuse together nicely with itself with little to no blemishes. I haven't tried using it in combination with the other thermoplastics but if it works like the previous Worblas, it'll bond just as nicely.

I personally don't think I would use the white worbla for most of my projects if only because its more expensive than the black worbla. Yes it's only a few bucks ($3) more than the black but when you are on a tight budget, you save where you can. I will, however, keep using it for smaller details and maybe even use it to sculpt small pieces.

Have you used any of the Worblas? What are your thoughts on it? Do you like one more than the other? Let me know in the comments below! I'd love to hear other peoples opinions!

~Serenity

P.S. I will be writing up a blog with my personal opinions on all the thermoplastics out there (I think I've tried just about all of them). So keep checking back!

Cosplay Organization: Wigs

Another big question I hear people ask is how to store their wigs. Whether it's short hair, long hair, or super elaborate, here's how I keep all my wigs in tack (along with other suggestions I've read/heard about)!

Let's start off with short hair wigs. These are obviously the easiest to maintain. After wearing, you can give it a simple brushing and toss it back in the plastic bag it came in. If you don't have that bag anymore, consider using a gallon Ziplocs bag instead. They're durable and seal nicely! I have a tote that I keep all of my bagged wigs inside of that helps keep them all together and keeps them safe.

As a side note, if you sweat a lot, or if the con you went to was just super hot, think about washing your wig before store it. Nothing is worse than pulling a wig out of bag and it smell a little funky! Don't know how to wash your wig? There are tons of tutorials on youtube! And depending where you bought it from, they might even have a how to as well! Capes Are Cool has a nice run down of wig care and storing as well. Check them out!

Mid length and long haired wigs can be a bit troublesome if not stored well. I always brush out (and clean if necessary) my wigs after each con. Otherwise, I forget it's a hot mess until the day I go to wear it and regret not taking care of it right away. I generally spend over 6 hours brushing out a long wig (sometimes more!). There are some good methods out there on how to prevent long wigs from tangling; which I'll get into in another blog. Once brushed out, I lightly braid the wig and place it back in it's bag. This will help keep it from getting tangled while in storage. I have to stress the lightly part because if it's to tight, and it ends up somewhere warm (like your car), this will heat set the fibers and give it a wavy look. If a long haired wig is styled heavily, I'll keep it on a wig head, braid it, then lightly wrap the braid around the base of the neck of the wig head. You can also just lay it around the stand when you place it on your shelf or box as well.

Any short or medium haired wigs that have a little bit of styling (like the bangs), I will typically just toss back in the bag. The wig wont come out perfect next time you go to wear it and will need a little touching up, but in the long run it saves you space. If I'm not transporting a lot of wigs to the con, I will take it out of the bag and put it on a wig head and restyle it before leaving for the con. But if I already have a lot of stuff to carry (which is usually the case) then I just leave it in the back and give myself a little extra time to touch it up in the hotel room.

For wigs that are heavily styled, whether it's a super spikey wig, mega curls, or over the top pieces, leaving these on wig heads is the best choice. Some people like to store these wigs (while on the wig head) into hat boxes. You can find plain ones and decorate them yourself or predecorated one. They come in all sorts of shapes and sizes (you just have to do a little bit of research). I've recent found this cosplayer who wrote about how they make their own wig boxes out of card board and fabric.

I currently have all my wigs that are on heads on a shelf in my sewing room. You can also technically just put them in any kind of card board box as well. A lot of people will also glue the wig head down into the bottom of the box so it doesn't roll around.

If you have the space, you can always buy one of those hat stands you see in retail stores. They're great for wigs! A slightly more compact version is a peg board or grid wall that you can attach to a wall or door and buy "hooks" that go in them.

And that's pretty much it. I hope this helps you keep your wigs organized! There are countless more ways to organize and store wigs. If you have any other tips or tricks, leave them in the comments below. I'd love to hear what you do!

~Serenity

Cosplay Organization: Storing cosplays

When you've been cosplay for as long as I have, you start gathering a lot of cosplays, supplies, and parts. So what do you do with it all? Here's some suggestions on how to keep things organized and compact.

After all these years, I've made over a hundred cosplays. At first, I had put as many as I could in garment bags. I would even double up cosplays from the same series to "save space." After a few years, I realized that this was definitely not the best way. So now I only keep my more complicated and/or fragile cosplays in garment bags. In addition, since I have an unfinished basement, I hang all these cosplays in one of those fabric closets. I suggest getting one with a metal frame. It'll hold up much better to the all the weight. Alternatively, you could make something out of PVC. This is the one I bought from target. So far it's holding up pretty well!

In addition to hanging cosplays, I also place their accessories and other items needed for it (like wigs) inside the bag. You can see a few examples below. Snow White has her head band which sits on the hanger easily. Adam Taurus has his wig, horns, and gloves. Both pretty simple outfits. My last example is General Cross. He's got Tincanpy, his hat, wig, belt, gloves, mask, and glasses. To keep it neat, I have a box that holds the smaller pieces (the gray box you see in the lower right of the bag).

For all my smaller cosplays that are just a simple outfit (with or without minimal accessories), I now keep them in totes. To make it easier to find things, I keep a piece of paper with a list of everything inside that tote at the very top. I eventually have plans to make a "My Cosplay" binder that will have a list of all my cosplays I've made and where they are stored. But that's for another blog later on. Clear totes are nice because you can see through them, but I still make a list just for convenience.

My Taokaka cosplay is too big and has to many accessories though. So I have the outfit in a bag and all the accessories in a photo box that's stacked with other boxes. I've collected all sorts of different pattern and colored boxes for each cosplay. They all stack nice and neat on top of each other too. These boxes are great for keeping wigs and accessories together for those simpler cosplays. (Fun bonus: the black container in the middle holds all my personal pattern pieces from previous cosplays! Though it's getting pretty full too, haha).

I don't have to many armor and prop pieces. But I keep all armor and larger props inside of totes as well. My Elspeth Sun's Champion cosplay is all kept in one tote for convenience. Somehow I managed to get 90% of my other pieces into one really large black tote. You have to get creative to fit it all in there! But it keeps them safe from accidental damage which is definitely a plus (especially when I moved).

I don't have any pictures of my swords, staffs, and other weapons (I just couldn't get a good shot, sorry!). Some people mount their props on the wall to display them (and keep them off the floor!). I don't have that kind of wall space so mine are leaning against the wall in a corner. I have even seen some people put them in a barrel! Some of the props that break down into pieces are laying across the top of the fabric closet that the cosplays are hanging in.

And that is how I store all of my cosplays, their accessories, armors, and props. Hopefully this helps you keep things more organized! What do you do to keep things organized? I would love to see! Got any other suggestions or questions? Leave a comment below!

~Serenity

Fabric Organization

For the next few blogs, I will be focusing on organizing your fabric collection and all your cosplay items. Today, we'll start off with fabric organization! This is something I struggled with for quite a while. I kept some fabrics on bolts/rolls against a wall, some in totes, and some stacked in bags. Some are in my sewing room, some are in a closet and some are in the basement. Anytime I wanted to find a fabric, it would take hours to find.

I've come up with a solution to help me find fabrics quicker. It's in no way perfect, but it's at least a start.

Bolts and Rolls
You think it would make things easier to keep fabric on bolts or on rolls instead of folded and into totes. The good thing about leaving them on a bolt (or roll) is you will have less creases to deal with when its time to use the fabric. If you have the proper shelving to hold bolts of fabric, then by all means, keep them on it! But I (and most cosplayers I know) have very limited space. So the fabrics I decided to keep on a bolt are either more fragile materials (ones that crease/damage easily and such) or ones that I have a whole bolt worth (8+ yards). Everything else, I took off a bolt and placed in a tote. I left any fabrics on rolls as is but only because I don't have many of them. Most of them are vinyls, leather/pleathers, or velvets that could get damaged if folded up. I also made sure to place them in plastic sleeves to help protect them as well. My sewing table is really wide so my bolts of fabrics are all stored underneath it (with plenty of room for my machine petal and my feet). My rolls of fabrics are stored in the back corner of the closet in my sewing room or on a shelf in the same closet. This shelf is really high up where you have to physically look up into the closet to see. So it's a perfect place for each access while keeping it off the floor! You can see how my stuff is store in the pictures below.

Totes, totes, and more totes
So how do you make it easier to find what you're looking for? First off, I organize all my totes by type of fabrics. I have one for knits, one for cottons, one for fleece, and so forth. I also have a separate tote for fabrics that I bought for specific cosplays (aka the never ending future cosplay list).

Now, I don't know about you, but I don't go through my fabrics that often. And I have fabric back from when I first started sewing (over 15 years ago). I don't always remember what I have (which can be troublesome if you constantly buy more of something you already own). You could make a list of what fabrics you have in each tote. Or, what I do, is cut a small corner off each piece of fabric and place it in a small container (or Ziploc bag). Once done, you just place it directly in the tote. So next time you need to look for a fabric, or remind yourself of what you have, you'll have a small collection of each piece in one convenient spot. I personally used Ziploc bags and wrote on the outside which tote it belongs to just in case it gets separated from the tote. I've also debating on taping it to the outside of the tote so I don't even have to open the tote to see what's inside. Alternatively, you can also buy clear totes so you can see through, which was my original intention, but you don't always see each piece of fabric that way.

So that's how I store and locate all my fabrics. I spent a few weeks going through each tote and organizing them by type and clipping off a corner of each piece. It's not something that can be done overnight (unless you have one to two totes). I have at least four or five more totes of fabrics not shown. And there are the new fabrics I just purchased which are in bags in the sewing room. It's a never ending process but if you keep up with it, it'll stay neat and easy to find!

Some upcoming organization blogs I will be doing are:

• Trims
• Notions
• Sample ordering
• Cosplays
• Armors and props
• Wigs

So keep an eye out for some more organization tips! What kind of methods do you use to keep track of your fabrics? Let me know in the comment section below! I love seeing other peoples methods!

~Serenity

No new progress

I haven't really worked on Mei in a while. So sadly, there is no new progress. I had planned to go to Pax Unplugged but things changed and now I won't be going. That means I can procrastinate even longer! Haha.

Instead, I have been spending my time organizing my fabric collection and my cosplays. I've taken a few photos and decided that I will do a series of blogs on how to keep your fabric and cosplays organized. This will include how to make it easy to find everything and how to store cosplays you wear frequently versus cosplays you retired (and refuse to leg go).

So keep an eye out for these posts!

~Serenity