Sergers: What are they? And why do you want one?

Sergers, also known as Overlock machines, can sew using two to five threads at once. Now and days, most sergers have four cones and can do a three or four thread overlock (some can even do a two thread overlock).

So how does a serger work? As fabric is fed into the machine, the feed dogs catch and move it along until the blade trims the edge. Then, the needles and loopers form the stitches perfectly on the edge of the cut fabric. Everything works simultaneously to create that perfect stitch. Typically if your serger is not forming stitches (also known as chains) properly, then you may have misthreaded something. Pull all the threads out and start fresh. If it's still not forming a chain, then it could be out of timing and needs to be taken to a professional for service (note I said professional, meaning don't try it yourself).

I recently wrote about purchasing a sewing machine in two previous blogs. Part 1 has information about how to narrow down your choices and where you can buy from. Part 2 went into a bit more detail about features sewing machines can have. If you haven't already, go give them a read. If anything, at least read through part 1.

As I stated in Part 1, I highly recommend visiting a local dealer to purchase a serger. Your satisfaction with your serger will depend greatly on the dealer you purchase from since you are also buying their service and experience. What does that mean? It means that when you have any issues or questions about your serger, they'll be there to help. Find out if lessons are included in the purchase. Most dealers offer an "introduction" or "guide" class when you purchase from them at no extra cost. If you've never owned a serger before (or barely used the one you had), then the guide class will be perfect for you. They'll go over threading, maintenance, and what your serger is capable of (gathering, rolled hems, etc). While if you buy something from Jo-ann Fabric or Amazon, you're stuck learning everything on your own. If there is a problem, you'll have to send or take it back for an exchange. Meanwhile, a dealer can help you solve your problem or look at the machine right away.

When buying a serger, keep in mind the basic questions you would normally ask when purchasing a sewing machine. Think about the types of materials you'll be using and what kind of projects you plan on working on. If you sew with a specific type of material, bring some sample pieces with you to test on (if you are visiting a dealer).

There are many different features available on sergers. It's helpful to have a list of what you expect your serger to do. Sew a lot of gathers? Then differential feed is a must have feature. Sew a lot of silk or sheer fabrics? Then you probably want to be able to do a rolled hem. Before you shop, I'd recommend reading about the different type of stitches sergers can do and what they are used for (maybe that'll be one of my next blog!).

So why do you want one? What's so great about them?

Sergers give your cosplay (or garment, project, etc) a more professional touch. It finishes the edges which also makes your cosplays last longer. Do you have to serger every edge of fabric in every project? Nah. I will serge any seam that is exposed or any fabric that tends to fray a lot (like satins). So if I'm working on something that will be fully lined, I will most likely skip serging the edges since all the seams will be enclosed.

When people ask for advance on purchasing a new serger or sewing machine, I always stress the importance of buying one of good quality. Even if that means waiting so you cans save a bit before purchasing. Why? Because the $100-$200 serger will end up lasting you a few years versus spending the extra $200+ on a better quality one that will last you 15+ years.

Don't forget that you'll want to get your serger (and your sewing machine) serviced about every 2 years. If you use your machines frequently (5+ hours everyday), consider getting it serviced every year. I highly recommend taking it to a shop to get it serviced properly. While you may be able to find videos online showing you how to open up your machine and where to put oil, they usually don't tell you much more than that. Did you know that most sergers and sewings take anywhere from 5 to 12 different kinds of oils and lubricants? Yup. That little bottle of oil you find at craft stores is not a universal oil to use on all parts of your machine (not to mention they are low quality).

Here's a few quick tips when shopping for a serger at a local dealer:

• Gather different weight and types of fabrics you want to sew to test on
• Have the dealer explain the stitches available
• Have them show you how to make adjustments (be it tension or type of stitches)
• Ask to have the differential feed and rolled hem demo'd
• Have them show you how to thread it (and thread it yourself afterward). Don't let them try to tell you the "cheater method" of tying your threads together. This doesn't always work and you want to know you can thread the machine on your own!
• Ask questions if you aren't sure
• Don't be afraid to talk about price. Sergers can run up to a couple thousand dollars. So if you want to stay under a certain amount, let them know. It helps them to know not to show you a top end machine when you want something basic (or vice versa).

Babylock is an extremely well known company for sergers. They have machines ranging from $500 up to $6,999. Why are they so pricey? Because they are built with good quality parts and have some amazing features. They also have a great education system with lots of YouTube tutorials and online classes. I'll be making a blog that goes over some of the features available for sergers (maybe next month). In the meantime, here are a few I recommend checking out.

Babylock Victory:
Within the Babylock line of sergers, I recommend not going lower than the Victory. Why's that? 'Cause this machine has automatic tension and what they call Jet-Air Threading™ (which is air threading using a pump/vacuum system). Any machine below this won't have those two features which trust me you'll want. It can also do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, gathers (differential feed), has a thread cutter, and has a built in needle threader.

Babylock Acclaim:

This serger is built much heavier than the Victory and can take a bit more of a beating. It also has automatic tension and their RevolutionAir™ Threading. It has a slightly bigger throat space (giving you more room to work on stuff), differential feeds, can do rolled hems, thread cutter, and it can do a "wave stitch." As of right now I haven't seen any use for that stitch in cosplay but it is pretty and great as a decorative stitch on projects. It also has air threading for your needles!

Babylock Triumph:
This machine is a beast (and probably out of reach for most). Seriously. The Triumph is a Serger & Cover Sitch combo machine. It has the ability to do 87 different type of stitches (although half of them are the same stitch with just an extra safety stitch added). It has an even bigger throat space, more LED lights, RevolutionAir™ Threading (for both loopers and needles). This is Babylock's top end machine and is a pretty expensive.

Brother 5234PRW:
If you are looking for a very basic beginner machine, this is a nice little one. It will meet most of your everyday needs and help get you started. It can do 2/3/4 thread overlock, rolled hems, and gathers. It also comes with a gathering foot, blindstitch foot, a little tray to catch your fabric as it cuts, and the extension table which opens up for storage.

These are just a few sergers that I have personally sewn on. There are lots out there to choose from and ultimately it's up to you to decide which one is right for you. If you have any further questions, feel free to leave them in the comments below or send a message on my facebook page!

Take care!
~Serenity