I hope everyone has a safe and amazing holiday this year! I won't be making a post this week or next week. There just to much going on within the next week (inventory at one job while working a full time job besides that and finishing a commission).
I will see everyone after the new years! Be safe! Have fun!
~Serenity
Wednesday, December 21, 2016
Sewing Terms!
I'm sitting here at work doing next to nothing and thought, why not do a post about something simple? I would love to continue the blogs on reading patterns, but I want to take some pictures of the pattern pieces and the instructions to aid in the conversation. It would be kind of hard to talk about the instructions without actually seeing them. So in the mean time, we can chat about some terminology most commonly used with sewing. Now, obviously I can't go over every term, and you may need to look up stuff on your own. But I'll try my best to go over the important ones. You are also welcome to comment here or shoot me a message on any of my social medias with any questions! I will always try my best to help! I also tried to add pictures when I can so you can visualize what I'm explaining.
Backstitch:
A backstitch is used at the beginning and end seam to anchor the seam in place. You do a couple of extra stitches back and forth (also known as back tacking). It pretty much helps keep your seams from unraveling!
Baste:
Basting is when you temporarily join fabric together with long removable stitches (some people also call it "tacking"). The purpose of this is to help keep your fabric, trim, or whatever item your sewing from shifting while you permanently sew it together. Usually the baste stitch is removed once the garment is sewn together but if it's not actually visible from the outside, you can leave it in. This is typically hand sew but can be machine sewn using a long stitch.
Bias:
The bias direction can be found on any piece of woven fabric. It is at a 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads (basically the threads that make up the fabric). All woven fabrics have two bias perpendicular to each other. Non-woven fabrics (like felt) do not have a bias.
Bias Tape:
As a cosplayer, you will find that bias tape is a magical thing that helps to do those colored edging on an outfit. You can find these in all sorts of colors in premade packs (though you can make them yourself too). Bias tapes are narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias. The premade packs come in 1/4", 1/2", and 1". You typically see bias tape used in quilts, place mats, bibs, etc. It's also an easy way to finish edges like arm holes and necklines. You can technically make bias tapes without cutting the fabric on the base, however, it wont have any kind of stretch to them.
Casing:
A casing is a fabric tunnel which elastic, drawstring, or boning goes through. When making pajama pants, you sew a casing into the waistband that the drawstring, ribbon, or elastic will sit in. You also make casings for boning to sit in when making a corset. Some people like to call them "channels" as well.
Dart:
A dart is used to help shape a garment. There are multiple different types of darts that can range in size and shape. You usually see darts in areas that have a lot of curve (like the bust area). It helps give your garment a closer fit.
Eyelet:
Eyelets (also known as grommets) are metal (sometimes plastic) rings that are set into a hole on a garment. They can be used to reinforce a hole or sometimes are decorative. There are different types of eyelets out there. Some eyelets come with just one piece, which leaves an unattractive look on the back. But you can get sets that come with the washer part that will set both sides nicely. All relatively easy to do. But I would recommend testing it out on some scrap pieces before doing it to your final garment.
Face:
The front of a piece of fabric. Basically the good side!
Facing:
Facings are fabric that is used to finish the raw edges of a garment (like a neckline and armhole). You will see some jackets that have facings instead of being fully lined. Or, even if it is fully lined, it might have a facing of the same material the jacket is made of. That way if the inside is exposed at all, you see the nice fabric and not the lining.
To the right is an example that shows what the inside looks like vs the outside.
Gather:
Gathering is a technique used to, in a nut shell, bunch of fabric. Typically you will sew two (or more) parallel stitches along the edge of the piece (or section) that needs gathering. Then you hold the ends of the threads and gently pull and tug on the fabric till it slides along on the thread. You will see that this gathers the fabric neatly. Depending on what you are making, you might gather it a little or a lot. I usually tie one end of the thread so that way the gather doesn't just fall out that end when you start pulling on it.
Godet:
A godet is a piece of fabric wider at the bottom than at the top, often a circular sector, inserted into a garment to add fullness for ease of movement or as a design feature. I've seen them in skirts but supposedly you can see them in sleeves as well.
Grain:
The grain of a fabric is the direction your fabric has been woven. It's important to know which way the grain is running, because fabric that is off-grain when you are cutting pattern pieces can cause you serious problems when you start to sew (it could stretch out of shape)! See the image next to "selvage" for an example.
Gusset:
A gusset is a piece of fabric (usually triangular but sometimes square or other weird shapes) that helps relieve stress on a garment. I usually have to put gussets in the underarm area when a jacket or shirt is tight in the shoulders/arms and I can't either raise my arms or move them forward without feeling like I'm going to hulk through it. It can be a bit tricky to just add it to an existing garment but some patterns do call for it on their own.
Hem:
You will hem lots of garments. It is the nice finished seam along the edge of your garment (usually at the bottom or ends of sleeves). To do this, you simply fold up the edge, then fold it up again and stitch it in place. This will enclose the raw edge and keep your garment from fraying/unraveling. I like to iron down the first fold, then iron the second fold. It makes stitching it so much easier. You can also fold up the fabric just once and stitch. Some people do this when they've serged the ends (serging is a fancy stitch that seals the ends from fraying) or if the fabric doesn't fray (like fleece or most knits).
Interfacing:
Interfacing is a material that is used to give pieces more stability. Whether it's to add stiffness (like in a collar) or add extra strength (for button holes). There are tons of different types, thicknesses, and weights. Some come in fusible, some are sew in, and some just lay in. When I first started sewing, and they called for interfacing, I laughed and didn't use it. Most beginners do it. Eventually though, if you want your garments to look professional, you will end up giving in. I'm glad I did (even though it's still a pain to this day).
Lining:
Lining is an inner layer of fabric (or other material, like fur) that provides a neat
finish; conceals seam allowances, interfacing, and construction
details; and allows a garment to slip on and off easily. It's usually pretty easy to insert a lining but it depends on the pattern.
Piping:
Piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric inserted into a seam to fine the edge or style lines of a garment. Piping usually is fabric folded over a cord but it doesn't always have to be. You can buy piping premade in an assortment of solid colors (usually found next to the bias tapes). You will most commonly see these used on decorative pillows, upholstery chairs, or on the edging of suit jackets.
Pleat:
Pleats are a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. You typically see this in skirts and dresses (although you will encounter them in other forms of garments too). There are quite a few different types of pleats and many ways you can sew them.
All cosplayers will end up having to do pleats at some point during their adventure. It seems very intimidating but it really isn't! It's just a bit time consuming. For cosplayers, it's pretty much your typical school girl uniform. I did make a mini tutorial on doing a basic pleated skirt which you can find here.
Seam Allowance:
A seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line. Seam allowances can range from 1/4 inch wide to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
The instructions for your pattern will tell you how much of an allowance you will need to sew with. Although you should note that some pattern pieces may tell you a different allowance than the main instructions.
Selvage:
The selvage is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp, and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. The selvage of commercially produced fabrics is often cut away and discarded. It's basically the edge of the fabric!
Serging:
There is a fancy sewing machine called a "serger" that serges the edges of your garment. It has a blade that trims away the fabric (so the edge is nice and clean) and does an overlock stitch that sort of seals up the edges to prevent it from fraying/unraveling. Sergers tend to be pricey so alternatively, you can use a zigzag stitch along the edges. While it doesn't look as professional, it gets the job done!
Welt:
This is a decorative way to cover the raw edges of a pocket (or other openings) in a garment. You tend to see welts on fancy blazers and vests. It usually looks like a big button hole. You do this by placing fabric right sides together over the pocket opening, stitching and turning this in, then top stitching in place. It takes some practice doing but it looks really nice in the end! You can find these as single welts or double welts!
Warp:
Threads running the length of a woven fabric. Also known as the lengthwise grain (little to no stretch). About 90° from the weft and 45° from the bias.
Weft:
Threads running at 90° angles to the length of woven fabrics (or the width). Also known as the cross grain. It has little to no stretch and is usually 45° from the bias.
Whip stitch:
A simple running stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. It's usually used for hand sewing gaps closed or to hold down fabric from shifting (like tacking down a facing so it doesn't move on you). I tend to use this the most when I sew a lining into my garment and I don't want a top stitch showing on the good side. I fold over the lining and whip stitch it in place.
Another common use for the whip stitch is when making stuff animals or pillows. Let's say you are making a round pillow. You completely sew 3 sides and then sew 3/4 of the forth side, leaving a gap to turn it inside out. Once you turn it inside out, you fill it up then whip stitch that gap closed.
Yoke:
Usually found on Oxford shirts or western wear, this is the small panel of fabric that comes from the shoulders and down several inches. It tends to be more of a decorative thing.
And there you have it. Some terms you will see commonly used when sewing. Now, of course I didn't go over every single term out there. And I'm sure I've missed some common ones as well (hey, I'm not perfect!). But this is a good start! As a side note, I totally finished this post days after I started it. So much for doing it while at work! Hahah!
~Serenity
Backstitch:
A backstitch is used at the beginning and end seam to anchor the seam in place. You do a couple of extra stitches back and forth (also known as back tacking). It pretty much helps keep your seams from unraveling!
Basting is when you temporarily join fabric together with long removable stitches (some people also call it "tacking"). The purpose of this is to help keep your fabric, trim, or whatever item your sewing from shifting while you permanently sew it together. Usually the baste stitch is removed once the garment is sewn together but if it's not actually visible from the outside, you can leave it in. This is typically hand sew but can be machine sewn using a long stitch.
Bias:
The bias direction can be found on any piece of woven fabric. It is at a 45 degrees to its warp and weft threads (basically the threads that make up the fabric). All woven fabrics have two bias perpendicular to each other. Non-woven fabrics (like felt) do not have a bias.
Bias Tape:
As a cosplayer, you will find that bias tape is a magical thing that helps to do those colored edging on an outfit. You can find these in all sorts of colors in premade packs (though you can make them yourself too). Bias tapes are narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias. The premade packs come in 1/4", 1/2", and 1". You typically see bias tape used in quilts, place mats, bibs, etc. It's also an easy way to finish edges like arm holes and necklines. You can technically make bias tapes without cutting the fabric on the base, however, it wont have any kind of stretch to them.
Casing:A casing is a fabric tunnel which elastic, drawstring, or boning goes through. When making pajama pants, you sew a casing into the waistband that the drawstring, ribbon, or elastic will sit in. You also make casings for boning to sit in when making a corset. Some people like to call them "channels" as well.
Dart:
A dart is used to help shape a garment. There are multiple different types of darts that can range in size and shape. You usually see darts in areas that have a lot of curve (like the bust area). It helps give your garment a closer fit.
Eyelet:
Eyelets (also known as grommets) are metal (sometimes plastic) rings that are set into a hole on a garment. They can be used to reinforce a hole or sometimes are decorative. There are different types of eyelets out there. Some eyelets come with just one piece, which leaves an unattractive look on the back. But you can get sets that come with the washer part that will set both sides nicely. All relatively easy to do. But I would recommend testing it out on some scrap pieces before doing it to your final garment.
Face:The front of a piece of fabric. Basically the good side!
Facing:
Facings are fabric that is used to finish the raw edges of a garment (like a neckline and armhole). You will see some jackets that have facings instead of being fully lined. Or, even if it is fully lined, it might have a facing of the same material the jacket is made of. That way if the inside is exposed at all, you see the nice fabric and not the lining.
To the right is an example that shows what the inside looks like vs the outside.
Gather:Gathering is a technique used to, in a nut shell, bunch of fabric. Typically you will sew two (or more) parallel stitches along the edge of the piece (or section) that needs gathering. Then you hold the ends of the threads and gently pull and tug on the fabric till it slides along on the thread. You will see that this gathers the fabric neatly. Depending on what you are making, you might gather it a little or a lot. I usually tie one end of the thread so that way the gather doesn't just fall out that end when you start pulling on it.
Godet:
A godet is a piece of fabric wider at the bottom than at the top, often a circular sector, inserted into a garment to add fullness for ease of movement or as a design feature. I've seen them in skirts but supposedly you can see them in sleeves as well.
Grain:
The grain of a fabric is the direction your fabric has been woven. It's important to know which way the grain is running, because fabric that is off-grain when you are cutting pattern pieces can cause you serious problems when you start to sew (it could stretch out of shape)! See the image next to "selvage" for an example.Gusset:
A gusset is a piece of fabric (usually triangular but sometimes square or other weird shapes) that helps relieve stress on a garment. I usually have to put gussets in the underarm area when a jacket or shirt is tight in the shoulders/arms and I can't either raise my arms or move them forward without feeling like I'm going to hulk through it. It can be a bit tricky to just add it to an existing garment but some patterns do call for it on their own.
Hem:
You will hem lots of garments. It is the nice finished seam along the edge of your garment (usually at the bottom or ends of sleeves). To do this, you simply fold up the edge, then fold it up again and stitch it in place. This will enclose the raw edge and keep your garment from fraying/unraveling. I like to iron down the first fold, then iron the second fold. It makes stitching it so much easier. You can also fold up the fabric just once and stitch. Some people do this when they've serged the ends (serging is a fancy stitch that seals the ends from fraying) or if the fabric doesn't fray (like fleece or most knits).
Interfacing:Interfacing is a material that is used to give pieces more stability. Whether it's to add stiffness (like in a collar) or add extra strength (for button holes). There are tons of different types, thicknesses, and weights. Some come in fusible, some are sew in, and some just lay in. When I first started sewing, and they called for interfacing, I laughed and didn't use it. Most beginners do it. Eventually though, if you want your garments to look professional, you will end up giving in. I'm glad I did (even though it's still a pain to this day).
Lining:
Lining is an inner layer of fabric (or other material, like fur) that provides a neat
finish; conceals seam allowances, interfacing, and construction
details; and allows a garment to slip on and off easily. It's usually pretty easy to insert a lining but it depends on the pattern.Piping:
Piping is a type of trim or embellishment consisting of a strip of folded fabric inserted into a seam to fine the edge or style lines of a garment. Piping usually is fabric folded over a cord but it doesn't always have to be. You can buy piping premade in an assortment of solid colors (usually found next to the bias tapes). You will most commonly see these used on decorative pillows, upholstery chairs, or on the edging of suit jackets.Pleat:
Pleats are a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. You typically see this in skirts and dresses (although you will encounter them in other forms of garments too). There are quite a few different types of pleats and many ways you can sew them.
All cosplayers will end up having to do pleats at some point during their adventure. It seems very intimidating but it really isn't! It's just a bit time consuming. For cosplayers, it's pretty much your typical school girl uniform. I did make a mini tutorial on doing a basic pleated skirt which you can find here. Seam Allowance:
A seam allowance is the area between the edge of fabric and the stitching line. Seam allowances can range from 1/4 inch wide to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
The instructions for your pattern will tell you how much of an allowance you will need to sew with. Although you should note that some pattern pieces may tell you a different allowance than the main instructions.Selvage:
The selvage is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp, and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. The selvage of commercially produced fabrics is often cut away and discarded. It's basically the edge of the fabric!Serging:
There is a fancy sewing machine called a "serger" that serges the edges of your garment. It has a blade that trims away the fabric (so the edge is nice and clean) and does an overlock stitch that sort of seals up the edges to prevent it from fraying/unraveling. Sergers tend to be pricey so alternatively, you can use a zigzag stitch along the edges. While it doesn't look as professional, it gets the job done!Welt:
This is a decorative way to cover the raw edges of a pocket (or other openings) in a garment. You tend to see welts on fancy blazers and vests. It usually looks like a big button hole. You do this by placing fabric right sides together over the pocket opening, stitching and turning this in, then top stitching in place. It takes some practice doing but it looks really nice in the end! You can find these as single welts or double welts!
Warp:
Threads running the length of a woven fabric. Also known as the lengthwise grain (little to no stretch). About 90° from the weft and 45° from the bias.
Weft:
Threads running at 90° angles to the length of woven fabrics (or the width). Also known as the cross grain. It has little to no stretch and is usually 45° from the bias.
Whip stitch:
A simple running stitch used to hold two pieces of fabric together. It's usually used for hand sewing gaps closed or to hold down fabric from shifting (like tacking down a facing so it doesn't move on you). I tend to use this the most when I sew a lining into my garment and I don't want a top stitch showing on the good side. I fold over the lining and whip stitch it in place. 
Another common use for the whip stitch is when making stuff animals or pillows. Let's say you are making a round pillow. You completely sew 3 sides and then sew 3/4 of the forth side, leaving a gap to turn it inside out. Once you turn it inside out, you fill it up then whip stitch that gap closed.Yoke:
Usually found on Oxford shirts or western wear, this is the small panel of fabric that comes from the shoulders and down several inches. It tends to be more of a decorative thing.
And there you have it. Some terms you will see commonly used when sewing. Now, of course I didn't go over every single term out there. And I'm sure I've missed some common ones as well (hey, I'm not perfect!). But this is a good start! As a side note, I totally finished this post days after I started it. So much for doing it while at work! Hahah!
~Serenity
Tuesday, December 13, 2016
How to read a Pattern: Part 1 (Reading the Envelope)
I figure it would be a good thing to start off with the basics. Todays post will be about how to read a sewing pattern! There are quite a few brands out there. Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, Bruda, Vogue, New Look, and KwikSew are the most common brands which you can find locally (usually anyway... depends on where you live). Joann Fabrics carries all these brands but you can also find some brands at Wal-Mart. The best time to buy patterns is when Joann Fabric's is having a sale on them! Simplicity, McCalls, and Butterick patterns will go down to as little as $1 each!! While Burda and Vogue go on sale for $5 each. That's when I always pick mine up (and pick up other ones for future outfits)!
What pattern to get?
So which patterns should you get? That really depends on your level of sewing. Have you ever sewn before? If the answer is no, then you should stick with Simplicity and McCalls. The patterns are relatively easy to understand and they come with a nice glossary and guidelines in the beginning to help new comers. Butterick is also usually pretty simple but sometimes the instructions are a little more difficult to understand. Burda and Vogue are for more experienced sewers. They assume you already know the basics and don't give you any (or very few) definitions or guidelines.
Now, not all brands are the exact same for patterns. Some might use slightly different markings. But overall, they're close enough.
You can pick a pattern by looking at the catalog books. Any store that sells pattern usually has these at a table next to the drawers that hold the patterns. Flip through the book till you find something you like or something close to what you need. Once you pick a pattern, you will see a number at the bottom of that page that tells you the pattern number. You use that number to find it in the drawers.
I'm going to look at Simplicity 2813 which is the Cinderella/Snow White costume. Just so we are all on the same page, I'm going to say we are making view A (which would be Snow White).
Not all patterns have such a fancy front. A lot are just simple white with either sketches of the outfit or some models or both. Anyway, as you can see on the front there is an A and a B next to the two models. Those are the two different "views" that this pattern comes with.
Direction under the pattern number is the sizing for the this pack. They usually (definitely not always) size 6-12 and 14-22. Some come smaller or bigger. I explain below how to tell which one you will need.
Then there is all that mumbo-jumbo written on the back. It seems like a lot but it's actually quite simple!
Reading the back of the pattern:
Fabrics:
This part will give you a list of recommended fabrics for this costume. It also lists fabrics for the different parts or accessories, such as the headband. Notice when you start reading the section, it just lists the lining, then talks about the views. They will always list items that are included for all views first. Then list each view separately. According to this pattern, they suggest doing the lining in broadcloth, dress and cape in either broadcloth or gabardine, and the headband, sleeve contrast, cape lining and bow in crepe back satin or satin.
Not sure what certain fabrics are? Or where to find them in the store? Ask! Most Joann Fabric associates have some (or lots) of knowledge about fabrics. You might not get as much luck at a wal-mart though. I'm not sure if they have any requirements for people in that department other than "here's how to cut fabric". But whoever you ask (whether at Joanns or wal-mart), they might be able to recommend you other types of fabrics to use! That being said, you don't have to use the fabric they suggest. If you find a suiting fabric that is the absolute perfect color for a cosplays, then get it! Obviously it doesn't always work out that way (like if you need a knit) but don't be afraid to experiment! I personally used satin to make the main dress since it looks nicer. After all, she is a princess!
Notions:
Here you will see a list of notions needed to make this costume. What's a notion? Pretty much anything you need to make the dress that's not the fabric. It can be buttons, zippers, ribbon, trims, eyes & hooks, Velcro (which some patterns call "hook-and-loop fastener"), etc. Looks like we need thread (obviously!), 22" zipper, one headband, and glue (for all views. We also need two hooks & eye, 8" of 3/4" wide Velcro, one package of polyester fiberfill (poly-fil, yes, the stuff you use to make stuffed animals!). Make sure you read the ENTIRE envelope before you think you have everything and head out!! Sometimes there are other things listed later on!
Body Measurements and Pattern Size:
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure you measure yourself before buying (and cutting) any pattern! Just because you wear a size 12 size jean, does not mean you take a size 12 pattern! Yes, I know that sounds weird but pattern sizes do not match up with actual clothing! You can find out what size pattern you need by following the measurement chart. Let's say my bust is 36". If you look at that number, and go down the chart, it would bring me to a size 14 in the pattern. Check all your measurements to make sure the size will fit. You have unique sizing, you may have to alter the pattern slightly. If you fall in between, like 37", I would round up to the next size. It's always easier to take in an outfit than to have to either add fabric to it or worse case, have to start over completely.
How much fabric you'll need:
Below the sizing chart, you will see another chart that tells you how much fabric you will need for each view (and in this case, the other bits you need). Fabric generally comes in 45" wide or 60" wide. So you will see two difference measurements each. The end of the bolt will tell you how wide the fabric is. If you're not sure, you can always ask the person cutting your fabric to help you. If the bolt of fabric says its 58" wide, then use the 60" measurement.
The satin fabric I bought for this outfit was 60" wide. Looking at the chart, if I go to the size 14 and follow it down, I will need 2 3/4" yards of fabric for the bodice and cape. You'll notice is says "45" to 60" on this line. That just means it doesn't matter how wide the fabric is, you'll still be getting the same amount. Continuing down, you'll see you need 3/4 of a yard of lining.
Below all that is the other bits of items you need to get as well. It'll tell you about interfacing, applique, piping and other stuff (which will be a topic for another day).
But that's pretty much everything in a nut shell! It's the very basic of how to read a pattern package. My next blog might be about some more terms you see on the back (like pile and nap). Or I may just jump right into opening the pack up and reading the instructions and pattern pieces! We shall see.
I hope you found this useful! Feel free to leave suggestions for future blogs, comments, or questions about anything. Thanks again for stopping by!
~Serenity
What pattern to get?
So which patterns should you get? That really depends on your level of sewing. Have you ever sewn before? If the answer is no, then you should stick with Simplicity and McCalls. The patterns are relatively easy to understand and they come with a nice glossary and guidelines in the beginning to help new comers. Butterick is also usually pretty simple but sometimes the instructions are a little more difficult to understand. Burda and Vogue are for more experienced sewers. They assume you already know the basics and don't give you any (or very few) definitions or guidelines.
Now, not all brands are the exact same for patterns. Some might use slightly different markings. But overall, they're close enough.
You can pick a pattern by looking at the catalog books. Any store that sells pattern usually has these at a table next to the drawers that hold the patterns. Flip through the book till you find something you like or something close to what you need. Once you pick a pattern, you will see a number at the bottom of that page that tells you the pattern number. You use that number to find it in the drawers.
I'm going to look at Simplicity 2813 which is the Cinderella/Snow White costume. Just so we are all on the same page, I'm going to say we are making view A (which would be Snow White).Not all patterns have such a fancy front. A lot are just simple white with either sketches of the outfit or some models or both. Anyway, as you can see on the front there is an A and a B next to the two models. Those are the two different "views" that this pattern comes with.
Direction under the pattern number is the sizing for the this pack. They usually (definitely not always) size 6-12 and 14-22. Some come smaller or bigger. I explain below how to tell which one you will need.
Then there is all that mumbo-jumbo written on the back. It seems like a lot but it's actually quite simple!
Reading the back of the pattern:
Fabrics:
This part will give you a list of recommended fabrics for this costume. It also lists fabrics for the different parts or accessories, such as the headband. Notice when you start reading the section, it just lists the lining, then talks about the views. They will always list items that are included for all views first. Then list each view separately. According to this pattern, they suggest doing the lining in broadcloth, dress and cape in either broadcloth or gabardine, and the headband, sleeve contrast, cape lining and bow in crepe back satin or satin.
Not sure what certain fabrics are? Or where to find them in the store? Ask! Most Joann Fabric associates have some (or lots) of knowledge about fabrics. You might not get as much luck at a wal-mart though. I'm not sure if they have any requirements for people in that department other than "here's how to cut fabric". But whoever you ask (whether at Joanns or wal-mart), they might be able to recommend you other types of fabrics to use! That being said, you don't have to use the fabric they suggest. If you find a suiting fabric that is the absolute perfect color for a cosplays, then get it! Obviously it doesn't always work out that way (like if you need a knit) but don't be afraid to experiment! I personally used satin to make the main dress since it looks nicer. After all, she is a princess!
Notions:
Here you will see a list of notions needed to make this costume. What's a notion? Pretty much anything you need to make the dress that's not the fabric. It can be buttons, zippers, ribbon, trims, eyes & hooks, Velcro (which some patterns call "hook-and-loop fastener"), etc. Looks like we need thread (obviously!), 22" zipper, one headband, and glue (for all views. We also need two hooks & eye, 8" of 3/4" wide Velcro, one package of polyester fiberfill (poly-fil, yes, the stuff you use to make stuffed animals!). Make sure you read the ENTIRE envelope before you think you have everything and head out!! Sometimes there are other things listed later on!
Body Measurements and Pattern Size:
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make sure you measure yourself before buying (and cutting) any pattern! Just because you wear a size 12 size jean, does not mean you take a size 12 pattern! Yes, I know that sounds weird but pattern sizes do not match up with actual clothing! You can find out what size pattern you need by following the measurement chart. Let's say my bust is 36". If you look at that number, and go down the chart, it would bring me to a size 14 in the pattern. Check all your measurements to make sure the size will fit. You have unique sizing, you may have to alter the pattern slightly. If you fall in between, like 37", I would round up to the next size. It's always easier to take in an outfit than to have to either add fabric to it or worse case, have to start over completely.
How much fabric you'll need:
Below the sizing chart, you will see another chart that tells you how much fabric you will need for each view (and in this case, the other bits you need). Fabric generally comes in 45" wide or 60" wide. So you will see two difference measurements each. The end of the bolt will tell you how wide the fabric is. If you're not sure, you can always ask the person cutting your fabric to help you. If the bolt of fabric says its 58" wide, then use the 60" measurement.
The satin fabric I bought for this outfit was 60" wide. Looking at the chart, if I go to the size 14 and follow it down, I will need 2 3/4" yards of fabric for the bodice and cape. You'll notice is says "45" to 60" on this line. That just means it doesn't matter how wide the fabric is, you'll still be getting the same amount. Continuing down, you'll see you need 3/4 of a yard of lining.
Below all that is the other bits of items you need to get as well. It'll tell you about interfacing, applique, piping and other stuff (which will be a topic for another day).
But that's pretty much everything in a nut shell! It's the very basic of how to read a pattern package. My next blog might be about some more terms you see on the back (like pile and nap). Or I may just jump right into opening the pack up and reading the instructions and pattern pieces! We shall see.
I hope you found this useful! Feel free to leave suggestions for future blogs, comments, or questions about anything. Thanks again for stopping by!
~Serenity
Thursday, December 8, 2016
The beginning...
Hello everyone!!
I have recently decided that I wanted to start a blog about cosplay. So bare with me for a bit as I set everything up! I aim to do at least one post a week. It will most likely be on Mondays since that's typically my only day off from both jobs. But nothing is set in stone yet.
Here's a few things to look forward to:
I have recently decided that I wanted to start a blog about cosplay. So bare with me for a bit as I set everything up! I aim to do at least one post a week. It will most likely be on Mondays since that's typically my only day off from both jobs. But nothing is set in stone yet.
Here's a few things to look forward to:
- Life as a cosplayer
- How to start cosplaying
- How to cosplay on a budget (and still look good!)
- Progress explanations of cosplays/commissions I work on
- Sewing tips and tricks
- Information on armor/prop building
- Explanations of tools, supplies, materials, etc
- Different methods to use for armor/props
- Wonderflex VS Worbla VS Thibra
- Organizing. Everything. (I have so much stuff!!)
- Convention tips
- Whatever else I think of
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